TISSOT Visodate Seastar T.12 ref.43514 / 1965, Gay Frères Extension Bracelet

The Tissot Seastar T12: a quiet masterpiece.

Founded in 1853, Tissot developed a screw-down sealed construction in 1938 and went on challenging the frontiers of the water-resistant watch; the Seastar series was born along that path.

Within it, the T12, which appeared in 1956, was a super water-resistant watch rated to 120m (12 bar) that rewrote the idea of what a diver's watch could be.

This example is a Seastar T12 Date made in 1965.

The caseback carries the series' emblem — a Spanish galleon — struck strongly into it, and the screw-back case stands out for a well-judged 35.5mm size and a beautiful mirror finish.

The dial has a radial finish, with faintly visible cross lines creating a quiet character.

The upright baton indexes carry black lines, and at twelve the brand logo, outlined in silver, gives off an understated but definite presence.

The lugs are straight and sharply formed.

A watch where sporting and dressy qualities are exquisitely fused, with a timeless appeal that settles naturally into modern style.

Gay Frères: art at the wrist.

Fitted to this example is a scarce original Gay Frères extension bracelet.

It is the work of the legendary Geneva metalwork workshop Gay Frères, which supplied bracelets to distinguished brands including Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet from the 1930s.

This extension bracelet has a design combining the flexibility and comfort of the Bonklip style, concentrating the technical capability and taste of its era.

It adjusts freely in size, and as the advertising of the day put it — "réglable pour chaque poignet," adjustable for every wrist — it balances usefulness with beauty.

Hardly ever seen today, this bracelet is highly regarded among collectors as a vintage accessory with a value equal to, or greater than, the watch itself.

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