dunhill Centenary Mechanical

— The measure of a gentleman —

The Centenary collection was launched for dunhill's hundredth anniversary, bringing the Art Deco spirit of the house's golden years back through modern savoir-faire. A stainless steel case built on straight lines, with a soft swelling at each of the four corners: modest, and unmistakably present.

— Detail that stays —

Arabic indices in a substantial font are set in good order across a hairline-finished silver dial. The hands are flame-blued — a depth of colour that can only be arrived at with heat — and their changing tone with the light is a small pleasure every time the hour is read.

— British structure —

As "MECHANICAL" on the case back suggests, the movement is the hand-wound calibre ETA 2660. The slight resistance under the fingers and the faint click of the crown make winding a conversation with the watch rather than a chore.

— Proportions that have lasted —

At 27 × 29mm, the case is calculated dress proportion. It reads intelligently under a business cuff and adds refinement to a jacket.

Among the watchmaking houses gathered at SIHH, dunhill stood out as a luxury brand that was not a watch specialist at all — and its watches, with their aesthetic properly applied, are no longer easy to overlook.